Homatics Box R 4K Plus

B21 changes volume on my receiver and soundbar. Both tv’s are lg.

I see the official Dune system is always outputing in Dolby Vision by default, even for the GUI. That prevents HDMI desync/sync but what about quality or correctness? Zidoo boxes have this option too, not enabled by default.

Good Day, I am slightly confused in setting up the USB as to which device_tree file to rename for the homatics 4k plus box to be renamed dtb.img, I did ask in the Homatics telegram and they intoned to use the homatics file but in the latest releases there is No homatics File… Ok so just talked to Sajid in the telegram thread and he said to use sc2_s905x4_sei_smb_280.dtb for Homatics so will give it a try.

I feel like a total idiot here, but how am I supposed to get this box to boot from USB?

If I hold reset while Android is up, it comes up with a screen asking me to hold BACK/HOME on the remote (which doesn’t change even after a minute of holding), after which it offers a factory reset and that’s all. If I hold it while the system boots up, literally nothing happens and it just goes to Android like normal.

Press and hold the reset button, then attach power connector. Keep pressing until you see CoreELEC logo.

For first time boot to coreELEC you can also use adb with command “reboot update” … That’s what I prefer…

Okay, now why didn’t that work the first dozen times I tried it??

Idiot status confirmed!

EDIT: anyhow, seems to be working well now. Got it all configured, works well with a FLIRC, and it’s scanning in my library. And unlike my old N2, it doesn’t lock up every 50-60 movies!

Bluetooth remote works also

Is there a config file I need to load for the Bluetooth remote, or do I need to create something manually? I’ve paired the remote successfully within CoreElec, but the buttons do nothing. Note that I do have a custom keyboard.xml for FLIRC and my IR remote, so it’s possible I’m “undoing” any setup in the default file.

With flirc, when you set the dongle in the pc to kodi, and teached the buttons , you dont need anything, but need unpair to bluetooth remote in CE.

Sorry, I mean to get the stock Bluetooth remote working in CE. I have no trouble with FLIRC and the IR remote I’m using.

I do need to tweak my old Chromebox/Odroid FLIRC keyboard configuration a bit so that it works better in Android mode. Like, I don’t seem to have a functional HOME button. Anyhow, that’s a completely different thing.

Is the LED on the remote flashing green? There is nothing extra, you just plug in your remote and everything will work, I just made a pendrive with the 9th image file and the remote works fine, after rebooting it sometimes needs to be paired, but then it works right away.

Try pressing again pair buttons on remote. I noticed that this sometimes help.

Weird. My remote just does NOT want to work.

After a fresh reboot I go into CE’s Bluetooth section, hold HOME and BACK on the remote, the LED starts blinking and it shows up as B21 on the device list. I go in and PAIR, it connects and says “connected” and has a little star next to it… but nothing. Buttons do nothing. The LED definitely flashes the color for Bluetooth button pushes, and if I “delete” the device from the Bluetooth list, it immediately drops to IR mode.

While the remote works perfectly fine in Android mode, it seems buggy in CoreElec. I can’t “disconnect” it (stays connected) - only delete. Furthermore, the pairing process has literally locked up the remote (no more LED activity) three times requiring a battery pull, and sometimes CE throws pairing errors like “authentication aborted” or “in progress”.

I’m not super concerned about the BT remote - I’m going to focus more on getting my FLIRC setup Android-ready - but would be willing to test any suggestions.

EDIT: Here’s something funky. I rebooted into Android mode. Paired the remote. Rebooted back into CoreElec. Remote is back in IR mode, HOWEVER, the volume buttons flash the Bluetooth color when used and cause the volume on my TV to change, presumably over CEC - even though the CEC adapter is disabled in CoreElec.

If in this state I re-pair the BT remote in CoreElec, the buttons still do nothing, but the volume buttons also stop controlling my TV’s volume.

Remote is back in IR mode, HOWEVER, the volume buttons flash the Bluetooth color when used and cause the volume on my TV to change, presumably over CEC - even though the CEC adapter is disabled in CoreElec.

The remote control of the box only controls the volume of the TV in IR mode, in BT mode it controls the volume of the box.
Is the system up to date? Do you have a Dune or Homatics box?

Up to date, yes. Including remote firmware. Homatics box.

You are indeed right about the volume buttons - got confused as the remote seems to have “IR” and “Bluetooth” colors and it was continuing to use the Bluetooth color for IR.

I’ve removed the FLIRC just to check (no change), it will re-connect to Bluetooth automatically after a full power reset, but still no response.

EDIT: Okay, here we go. Deleted my custom keyboard.xml and the BT remote started working. My keyboard.xml was based on a fairly old FULL file with old MCE keyboard support, so I assume it was messing up something in the newer defaults. Thankfully I’d fully commented my changes, so I’ve whittled it down to only my modifications, and now both my custom FLIRC setup and BT remote seem to be happy.

Here is a broad question about subtitles is there a way to make subs default, every time I select it as default it forgets, maybe edit a a file within the file structure shrug

This seemed to work well on my Odroid NG and version 19 but will not stick on Homatics and version 21

Thanks

Mines on the way, decided to join the DV crowd. Can anyone confirm if the power plug is the same size as the one on the N2? As in - the circular plug that fits into the box. Otherwise I’ll have to grab an Aussie power supply with various fittings to suit.

Yeah, it’s a standard 12V connector, just like almost everything else 12V these days. In fact, I’m using the exact same power adapter as my N2, as I was too lazy to replace it!

Thanks heaps. Yeah that’s the plan 12v/2A is fine if the one in the box is 12V/1.5A. Cheers