Thanks! I see there is bluetooth voice remote control.
I suppose the “voice control” doesn’t work with CoreELEC. Right?
That’s interesting. I wonder if it matters whether one uses a projector or display?
So you’re forcing tone mapping to alter the intended colour space of the content to an artificial representation and you think that’s better? How do you generate the scene specific dynamic data when it doesn’t exist? Don’t know why you’d waste money on a HDFury and then set your devices to do that. Seems counter-intuitive.
1 Like
There may well be a reason to do that if there is no or inadequate tone-mapping available in a particular projector. If he likes how it looks - more power to him. This is, after all, a subjective hobby we all share.
I guess so. I dunno, just sounds kinda pointless.
Has the problem of the bluetooth pairing being erased at each reboot been fixed?
Erased? You can’t connect by holding the back and home buttons?
For me sometimes works, sometimes it doesn’t. It is very inconclusive and nothing we can do.
The only solution is pressing pairing buttons on remote and it starts working again.
BT sucks.
Yes, agree with vpeter. Better to not use bt. But you can use it with IR mode, as here written…
Or use your tv remote with CEC, when possible…
If you can buy a version with IR receiver(Dune) to avoid BT re-connection issues in CE…
I saw the DuneHD internals somewhere but can’t find it again.
Can someone tell me where the IR sensor is located with respect to the HDMI logo.
I want to fit my IR repeater optimally.
Found the link: https://www.avsforum.com/threads/dune-hd-homatics-box-r-4k-plus-streaming-home-media-player.3268689/page-20#post-62470875
I thought all the bluetooth was turned off after reboot, if the pairing works it’s not a big issue. It happens all the time with BT. Regarding the IR, it will not work since my box will be in a closed cabinet.
Do you know if docker and entware work with the new aarch64 architecture?
I have no problem with the bluetooth remote here, I use my own bluetooth remote, not the bluetooth remote control from homatics.
Yep, with flirc usb + extension cable, “IR closed cabinet problem” solved… 
Docker and entware works like a harm. I’m a hard user of both.
Regarding closing the box in a cabinet… Not a great idea with s905x4 until you have a fan blowing air on it 
Seriously! I always thought that ARM-based devices were almost never hot.
My old ugoos doesn’t heat up at all!
I am glad for docker and entware.
what remote you using? Thanks
For a non dolby vision tv/ projector you can use the cheap https://www.amazon.se/HDMI-splitter-1x2-60Hz-uppgradering-EDID-brytare/dp/B083JVPXDY/ref=asc_df_B083JVPXDY/?tag=shpngadsglesm-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=476613464782&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12850506768071520588&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1012273&hvtargid=pla-928078579357&psc=1 to trick your player to use lldv with Custom firmware from avsforum .
My Hometics 4K has arrived and I’ve created a USB with latest CoreELEC nightly with correct dtb.
Question: How to get the box to boot from this CoreELEC USB drive? It always boots to Android (latest after it auto updated).
The Coreelec installation instructions are accurate. Make sure you did each step.
To do the very first boot (Coreelec install) you need to press and hold the reset button, while you cycle the power (unplug/plug). Hold the reset button in until you see the Coreelec logo on your screen. Then release.
After its installed, every reboot will be direct to Coreelec as long as you leave the USB drive in.
1 Like